West Coast Trail Full Hike May 2013

So, last time I hiked the full West Coast Trail was August 2011. It was difficult then, but many of the problems I could chalk up to knee problems I was having at the time. This time, 11 months after my knee surgery I can sum up the difficulty with one word: slippery.
Here's an overview of our trip, with photos to go along. I met up with my hiking partner/research participant last Monday in Victoria and drove up to Port Renfrew. We attended our hiker orientation that day in order to get an early start the next morning. Amongst periodic rain showers we set up our tent at the Pacheedaht First Nation campground, hoping that the weather on the trail would be in our favour. However, when we took the ferry over the next morning, it poured rain. An ominous beginning to the most difficult portion of the trail. Most people know that the southernmost end of the trail is  the most difficult section. Not many people comprehend just how difficult it actually is. I know I didn't when I first hiked it, and we were barely able to make it out on time to make the shuttle bus. To those like me who come to backpacking via alpine experiences, trail difficulty is usually measured through elevation gain, loss, and incline. These are not ways to accurately measure the difficulty of the West Coast Trail. The most difficult southern section appear, at least on the map, to have what to a seasoned mountain 'packer was insignificant topographic variation. Not so. When the trail is covered with logs, roots, and rocks and every step is a balancing act, elevation is not a good guide to difficulty.
Day 1: LOG DAY
It took us ten and a half hours to hike the thirteen kilometres to Camper's Bay. We decided to skip the first campground at Thrasher's Cove because it adds a one kilometre descent and morning ascent to the trail. This meant we hiked from around 8:30 am until 7:00 pm, with very few stops. I'm sure others, like the two men ahead of us, could hike it faster, but we chose slow and steady because much of the terrain was replete with precarious footing and quite frankly, dangerous, obstacles. Also, our short legs had trouble with some of what we came to call 'man-steps', obstacles that required us to do trail-yoga style lunges as we lacked the long legs of the steps the trail-builders seemed to have built for.  This is the portion of the trail where many people are injured. Here are some photos to give you an idea, and remember all of the wooden obstacles are wet and slick as ice.

Crawling under logs

Tromping through knee deep mud bogs with buried obstacles

Balancing precariously on slippery log bridges

Taking 'man-steps' over gnarly roots

I admit after several years of a regular knee dislocations I am petrified of slipping, and my hiking partner was terrified of heights, so these fears also contributed to our slow progress. We basically just wanted to get this portion of the trail done. We showed up at Camper's Bay exhausted, hungry (we barely ate during the day, our bodies and minds were too stressed with effort to have much of an appetite) but with the worst behind us. Most of the hikers we met at Campers, including a group of high school kids on a field trip, were on their way south, and we looked on them with pitying eyes as they prepared to tackle the next day what it had just taken us over ten hours to conquer. Although it had barely rained that day, our boots and socks were soaking wet and our gaiters covered in mud, a status which would not change for the rest of the six days on the trail.

Day 2: LADDER DAY

The next day we had a lazy morning after our difficult start. We were the last to leave camp, partially due to our reluctance to don our soaking wet boots and socks (no point putting on fresh socks, they'd be soaking wet in moments). Day 2 was ladder day, hiking a mere nine kilometres from Camper's Bay to Walbran Creek. A distance that I could probably cover in 2 hours in good terrain, but which took us about eight hours. Mud, mud and more mud. And then ladders. Personally, I don't mind the ladders. They're straightforward as compared to struggling over muddy roots. But my hiking partner who is afraid of heights had a bit more trouble. Dangling from a ladder down a steep cliff, only to land on a suspension bridge, was not her favourite thing. That night she drank her entire flask of brandy (chased with Cadbury mini-eggs) in order to erase the memory.

Ladders on cliffs

Slippery rain-soaked ladders

Ladders that don't seem to end

Also cable cars and a suspension bridge, which I personally find fun, in an amusement park ride sort of way.

Logan creek suspension bridge

Cullite Creek cable car

 I think they're fun, even if some people don't

Day 3: HAMBURGER DAY

The next morning we couldn't take the beach route heading north out of Walbran because Walbran Creek was running too high. I'm a stickler for hiking safety regarding river fords, and won't do a ford unless the water is running at knee height or lower, if possible. I'm a strong swimmer, but I know that with the dead weight of a pack (make sure to undo waist buckle when fording) crossing a spring flow is not an easy task. So we took the forest route, which, like most of the southern forest routes, was muddy. We were able to 'refresh' the water in our wet boots within only half an hour on the trail. But we didn't mind. Because today was HAMBURGER DAY. Yes, today was the day where 1) we'd finally get to hike on the beach and 2) we'd fill our bellies with delicious burgers from Chez Monique's. 

This was a good day, perhaps our best day, and not just because of the delicious grilled meat on a bun. Almost as soon as we started on our first beach walk of the trip just south of Bonilla Point, the sun came out. For the first time on the trip I put on sunscreen! It was joyous. 

And then, out of the fog ahead of us, was a white gleam of hope. Chez Moniques. Home of the famous trail burger. Chez Moniques is run by, well, Monique, a lovely woman who operates a store-cum-hamburger stand-cum-hiker-shelter on Carmanah Beach. It is located on an "Indian Reserve" land claim inherited by her husband Peter (who informed me that in the Ditidaht language, Carmanah is actually called Kla-ba-iwa). They used to live there year round, but now they only occupy it during the trail season, along with 2 dogs, a cat, and a host of WWOOFers (Willing Workers On Organic Farms) who help Monique out with her garden, cafe and store. Her humble shelter feels like a palace to the weary hiker and Monique is friendly, hospitable, and full of knowledge about the trail, the area, and the land. It's worth going to Monique's just to speak with Monique and Peter, who are quite the amazing pair. 

At Moniques we sipped cold beers, devoured burgers and salad (fresh produce! amazing after 2 and a half days of dehydrated meals), and had a lovely, lazy afternoon in the sun.

Beach!!

Afterwards, we headed up to Carmanah Lighthouse, then down to the beach for a quick and easy hike to Cribs campground. Ending with a beautiful sunset, hamburger day was definitely the best day. 

Day 4: Boardwalk Day

This was our longest day in terms of kilometres, with about seventeen kilometres between Cribs beach and our destination of Tsusiaht Falls. It also involved a ferry crossing at Nitinat Narrows and some delightful beach walking near Cheewat. However, what defined the day were these: 

Looks like nice and easy walking, eh? DECEPTION!! These are as slippery as ice. Shuffling along like grannies, we crossed these perilous hazards at a mind-numbingly slow pace. It was actually easier to walk in the swamp beside the boardwalk than on the boardwalk. That night, I dreamed of wooden slats covered in a thin, slimy, slippery, goo. Apparently if one hike's the trail later in the season, this goo is gone. Lucky us hiking in May, we encountered the full extent of a winter's slime build-up. 

Day 5: BEACHES AND HEADLANDS

The section between Tsusiaht Falls and Michigan Creek is one of my favourites. For one thing, it has some of the best views from the trail, which either follows the beach or winds along some stunning headlands. Also, the terrain is much easier in this section, so it's possible to actually look around, instead of at your feet, without worrying too much about slipping and sliding into a ravine. This is also the portion of the trail where I will spend most of my summer, hiking in and out of the Pachena trailhead. Also, the area north of Tsusiaht Falls is Huu-ay-aht First Nation territory, and I have full permission from the Huu-ay-aht to conduct research on their territory. It's also just plain beautiful. Since I'll be spending most of my summer in this area, I'll write more about it another time. This is also a good wildlife viewing section, with bald eagles posing majestically perched on walks, whales spouting off shore, and bears.....pooping all over the beach (yep, this was our bear encounter, nearly stepping in mountains of scat). 

Day 6: EASY OUT

The last twelve kilometres have little in common with the southern end of the trail. A nice wide trail with few obstacles, we were able to exit the trail in about four hours, including a stop at Pachena Lighthouse. The last few metres of the trail were spent walking on the white sand of Pachena beach, a great way to end our trail odyssey. 

Last campground at Michigan

First West Coast Trail expedition of the 2013 season a success!! Conditions: Slippery!!

Just returned yesterday from my first hike of the West Coast Trail for the 2013 season. I'm going to aim to hike the full trail at least once a month this season to get sense of how the trail changes over the months. My first impression of May: difficult, wet, slippery, muddy, but not busy. Regarding my last post about structures, one peril of hiking the WCT in the early season is that the trail crew has not yet had time to upgrade the trail structures more than absolutely necessary, so some of the boardwalks and bridges were sketchier than I remember when I hiked it in August. Also, the little traffic and abundant winter precipitation means that the boardwalks are slipperiest at this time of year. Many of them require what we termed a 'granny walk', shuffling along as if we were treading on ice. Slow-going. But better than slipping and breaking a leg. A full update to come, along with pics.

Juan de Fuca: For the love of structures.....

Well, it's been a busy two weeks! Hiked the Juan de Fuca Trail and attended a conference where I presented a paper about women and backpacking. I think the hike was more successful that the conference presentation! We had great weather, which meant of course, that when we start the WCT this week we will probably have terrible weather. At least according to the forecast. But I'm not so worried. Because weirdly enough, the Juan de Fuca lack something that makes traversing the difficult terrain of the WCT so much easier. 

Structures. 

I love structures. 

The ladders, bridges, stairs, and boardwalks of the West Coast Trail may be hazardous when slippery and a challenge for the cardiovascular system when ascending, but man, do I appreciate them after the Juan de Fuca. It lacks structures. Most of the trail looks like this.

And this.

While the wonderful WCT trail crew cover such washouts and steep muddy ravine banks with ladders etc., there was n'er a ladder to be seen on the Juan de Fuca, which meant that 12 km between Bear Beach and Chin Beach, the 'most difficult' section, took about seven hours to complete. And all the little balancing muscles around our knees were sore and wobbly from negotiating the precarious footing. On the third day when we came to this, even my hiking partner, who is afraid of heights, was glad for the relief of a bridge, rather than a steep, precarious descent and ascent.

So I am oddly looking forward to the ladders of the WCT, which means my knees won't be quite so mud-covered as I scamble up slippery banks, and my quads won't hurt from so many awkward lunges over tree roots ('man steps' we tended to call them, because they would have been way easier to manage with longer legs). Furthermore, all this trudging over difficult trail was a good test run for the longer WCT (but perhaps easier terrain-wise). I'm ready to go.

Chin Beach did have one very aesthetically pleasing 'structure'. 

The Juan de Fuca also was the beginning of a list I want to start of all the odd things I witness people bringing into (and often leaving) in the backcountry. In this short 4 day trip we found or saw people bring: 
-a full litre of half and half cream (not even milk, but cream! it wasn't even UHT, it was the kind that needs to be refrigerated!)
-a can of coconut milk
-a litre of canola oil (trail-side deep frying?)
-a basketball
This last one was found stuck between two logs in the middle of the rainforest, 10 km from the nearest road or flat surface appropriate for playing basketball. WTF? If it was washed up on the beach, sure, but in the middle of the forest??
This list is To Be CONTINUED.....

 
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Hiking the Juan de Fuca tomorrow

So, I'm setting off on my first backpack of the season tomorrow. However, it is not the West Coast Trail. Rather, I'm starting out on the Juan De Fuca tomorrow. Known somewhat as the West Coast Trail's less onerous sibling, the Juan De Fuca stretches a mere 45 km along the southern west coast of Vancouver Island.

I've decided to wet my feet with this one for two reasons 1)I've never hiked it 2)I'm hiking with someone who has never backpacked before. She wants to hike the WCT, but I told her I would never recommend hiking the WCT as a first backpack, and would not take someone on the trail as a companion (Doctor Who style, I'm the wannabe doctor of course....) who has never hiked with a big pack before. Note: The WCT should NEVER be attempted as ones first backpack. EVER. This is not because it is the most difficult hike in Canada, it is rather because once you are on it there are no exit routes except by emergency evacuation. Once you're on it, you're on it for all 75 km and you can't get off it. So that means what you bring in, you bring out. And everyone, I mean, EVERYONE, makes the rookies mistake on their first backpack of bringing too much stuff and/or the wrong stuff. No matter how much you research backpacking, study packing guides etc. you don't know what YOU need and don't need on a backpack until you pack it. Also, no matter how in or out of shape you are, carrying a pack is, as one of the participants in my previous study on the Canadian Rockies phrased it, "a beast unto itself". So yeah, no first-timers allowed on the trail under my watch. I could rant on and on, and I probably will rant more on this topic in the future (in fact, I'll probably devote several blog posts to it), but I'll let it go for now. Although, if anyone out there has any good first-time hiking mistakes please share them. Maybe I'll do a future post on what NOT to bring.

So yes, Juan de Fuca tomorrow, 4 days, 3 nights, hiked with the first willing victim....I mean 'participant' of my research project. Unlike the WCT, the Juan de Fuca has several exit and entrance points. This means that backpackers share the trail with day-hikers, surfers and sun-bathers at certain points along it. However it does mean that in the event of something going slighly off (sprained ankle, thoroughly rain-soaked gear, fatigue, realizing you forgot the stove etc.) there's a way out. It's also cheaper, with hikers only having to pay a small camping fee without the hassle of reservations (another future blog post will be on why the WCT costs what it does to hike, the reasons are more complex than many think). Check it out the trail info here: http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/juan_de_fuca/hiking.html

I am also excited about the first hiking season tomorrow because it will be the first opportunity for me to try out my experimentations with a home dehydrator. Commercial dehydrator meals are expensive, especially on my meagre student budget. So, my wonderful yet ever-practical parents gave me a dehydrator for Christmas, so I would be able to create my own nutritious dried meals, rather than relying on Lipton's Sidekicks forever. Recipes to be tried on this trip: "Delux" Tuna Casserole, Curry Chickpeas and Couscous, and 'Inverted' Shepherds Pie. If these work (and they better, we'll be hungry) I will post these recipes for your viewing pleasure. In fact, I will likely have several posts on the topic of food, as it is an important subject which hikers tend to discuss in detail with much relish around the campfire.

One week until the trail opens!

One week until the the West Coast Trail opens, and one week until my epic summer of hiking/anthropological fieldwork begins! 

I've started this blog to share my project, my thoughts, my photos, and my research findings with those who have participated in/or are interested in my research study on the West Coast Trail. I hope it will be a forum for discussion about the varied thoughts people have about the Trail and for continued sharing of stories, photos and memories about experiences along the infamous West Coast Trail. 

I'm a graduate student in Anthropology at the University of British Columbia and this research is for my PhD dissertation. I'm interested in nature-based tourism, hiking, and camping as cultural practices, particularly in western Canada. This research will hopefully create data for me to write my dissertation, publish academic articles, and hopefully write a book. I'm also writing reports on tourism around the West Coast Trail for Parks Canada, the Bamfield Chamber of Commerce, and the Huu-ay-aht First Nation. This study has been reviewed and approved by both Parks Canada and the Huu-ay-aht First Nation. 

What is being studied and why?

This study looks at the multiple ways people view the  West Coast Trail and its surrounding area in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Hiking and camping are a significant cultural practice in Canada, and the West Coast Trail is one of the iconic places to take part in such activities in Canada. Different people may view the West Coast trail area as a tourist destination, an iconic Canadian landscape, a place of environmental or natural resource significance, as traditional aboriginal territory, or as some or all of these at once. This study looks at how these different views of this place interact within the context of outdoor recreation and tourism. Basic research questions include: Why do people hike the trail? How is the hiking of the trail facilitated locally? Is there a difference between hikers expectations of the trail and their experiences of it? Are certain views of the trail area emphasized over others and why? If so, is this something that needs to be changed, and what sort of changes may be needed? 

This is an ethnographic study, which means that the main method used will be participant observation (watching, listening, chatting, and even participating in everyday activities with trail-trekkers, from hiking to eating a meal). For different participants, this may mean chatting casually while hiking on the trail, for others it may mean sitting down in a more formal setting for a long conversation.  The main focus of conversation and observation will be different views of the trail, the landscape and significant places it traverses, and its status as a tourism destination. This blog has been started as a means to continue conversations about the Trail, as well as start new ones. 

The West Coast Trail is opening next week for it's 2013 season May 1 until September 30. During that time I will hike and camp along the trail, hanging out with hikers and chatting about their experiences. I am based out of Bamfield at the northern end of the trail and will be spending much time in and around beautiful Pachena beach on Huu-ay-aht treaty settlement lands. Pachena is the beach in the background photo of the blog.

If you plan on hiking the trail, or have hiked the trail, I'd love to include you in my study. Send an email to wctstudy@gmail.com to learn more. 

More to come on the blog about me, the Trail's history, Trail information and statistics, the environment of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, and of course gorgeous photos of the Trail.